FROGGER, India style.

Not much else to say about Guwahati. Ok, so there was some political issues there while we were there,but no big deal. The northeast states really didn't offer a lot. We picked that region of the country because it seemed 'less traveled' but in actuality it was very traveled, but only by Indian nationals. We were the only two foreigners of many many tourists. The State-run tourist agencies were of no use and noone could answer questions.

All in all, if we could redo a part of our trip, we both wish we could have headed north to Sikkim instead of NE States. The permits weren't that big a deal and the mountains would have been amazing. But, no what ifs, ands or buts...

Back in Delhi...we are playing Frogger again. This came up last time we were here when Ethan likened crossing the road to playing the deluxe version of Frogger. Not only to do you have to avoid auto-rickshaws, cycle-rickshaws, cars, taxis, cows, dogs, and beggars, but you must also determine if the people confronting you as average citizens wanting to shake a foreigners hand or sly businessmen trying to mis-direct you into their stores. All of the vehicles travel at different speeds and all that are able to pick up a fare will slow down causing more confusion.It would definately make an excellent Frogger deluxe. We definately got the high score!

But, Delhi isn't that bad the second time around. We now know how to go to the bathroom in squat toilets and to always have paper on hand. We also know how to hold it for long periods of time. We also are pretty savy on the bargaining. We know the food. We can ignore the tauts and catcalling from the shops. And I can ignore the men staring at me. Really, we kind of liked it the second time around. Delhi is a big mixing pot of the whole country and we enjoyed watching the people from our balcony.

Diwali is a big Indian holiday and we were lucky enough to be in Delhi to celebrate. It is the festival of lights and with the present giving and candles everywhere kind of resembles Christmas/Hannukah in the States. Every shop had marigold garlands and candles at the door. Tinsel and crepe paper hung everywhere and everyone exchanged gifts. The best part (well for the first hour or so) was the fireworks. We have missed three 4th of Julys in the States and enjoyed watching the fireworks from all directions around the street and throughout the city. It was a major display no matter which way you looked. But after an hour or so of M80s being dropped outside your window, it started to feel a bit like a warzone. I had a bit of a cold, so Ethan headed to the roof to watch more while I took two cold pills and tried to sleep through the noise and the stink of sulfur from everywhere. I didn't do so well and actually had to sit right next to the tv to hear the movie.
I'll let Ethan describe it from the roof...
All over the city the sky was lit up from the fireworks being set off by everyone all over the city. The light displays were impressive with the constant explosions of huge firecrackers. This started around 6pm and lasted well past midnight. Looking into the sky from our balcony on the third floor I had a good view of the city and I have a feeling of what it must have been like in a city that was getting bombed. I enjoyed the specticle and celebration for a few hours but then it got old and was like the fireworks that would never end. I finally got to sleep around 1am when things slowed down. It seems surreal now looking back on it the following day.

As for the bargaining, Ethan got wanted sunglasses at one of the markets where tthe man started at Rs1000 for a pair of fake Oakleys claiming they were genuine although they were labeled "Oakeys." Ethan told the man they were not real and he said, yes yes and they sell them at the Oakley store. By the time we walked away, he called us back and took Rs100. My best bargain was for a shirt from Rs650 to Rs100, so Ethan wins the prize. We considered buying Pashmina scarves to bring home, but we know absolutely nothing about the quality and really can't justify spending more than what we spend on lodging on a scarf. Maybe next time we travel through here we will have some money to spend on some really cool gifts.

For now, we are just looking and making sure we have warm enough clothes for Europe. We leave tonight for Vienna and are trying to do the last of the cheap internet work from here.